The Worst & Best List (So Far)

One of the major questions people ask is our opinions on places we have stayed over the past year. This is especially true of other full-time Rvers who are always on the lookout for the best places at the lowest prices. There's nothing worse than overpaying for uncomfortable surroundings and inadequate facilities.

Overall, we've been lucky so far. Being new to the game when we hit the road, we booked stays in places we had never been and hoped for the best. Some exceeded our expectations, most were adequate and a few were outright hell holes. We realize that not everyones expectations are the same. Some people will only stay at four-star rated properties, while others are happy with only an electrical hookup and fire ring. That's fine. To each their own. The particular rankings on our list is solely based on our expectations and experiences, but the reasons why could probably be agreed upon by just about anyone.

The Worst Places We Have Stayed (So Far):

#5 - Beaver Springs Lake Campground
Location: Davenport, NY
Reasons: First, we have to give credit to the owners of Beaver Springs Lake Campground for being some of the nicest people we have met along our journey. They truly cared about our comfort and the grounds were very well maintained. Yet, the location is hard to access, is without cell phone reception or television signals, offers mainly grassy sites except for permanent residents and the wifi access advertised could only be accessed in the immediate vicinity of the office.

The major problem with our stay was the attitude of the permanent residents. They were unfriendly to the max and treated us as if we had just landed in their space with the intention of overthrowing their empire. It was weird. They never waved hello, they never spoke to us, they glared our way while speaking among themselves in whispered tones and, I'm sure, kept asking management when we were going to leave. A prime example of the overall atmosphere was when the owner rode his bike up to our spot and invited us to the weekly bingo game at the pavilion. Part of his comment was (and I'm not making this up), "At least you can get away from the Hound Of The Baskervilles for awhile." Huh??

#4 - Skidaway Island State Park
Location: Savanna, GA
Reasons: I love the low-country region of the Carolinas and Georgia. There is something very peaceful about the rivers, grassy islands and abundance of wildlife. However, Skidaway Island State Park is not the place to stay if you wish to be comfortable while enjoying the surroundings.

The park is easily accessible and hosts an extensive nature trail system replete with observation towers. But the mud-filled sites, high nightly fees, biting ants, numerous spiders, mosquitoes, bees, wasps, a wifi signal only accessible at the office area and a complete lack of customer service skills among the staff all combined for a miserable stay. We were able to take some great wildlife pictures, but left covered in huge and numerous insect bites that did not go away for weeks. This park is great for a day visit to enjoy the trails, but not recommended for an extended stay.

#3 - Fallen Rock Parke Campground
Location: Brazil, IN
Reasons: We would probably never have stayed at this park except it was the closest place we could find to Terre Haute, IN that wasn't outrageously expensive. (My youngest daughter, Jennifer, and her husband, Trent, live in Terre Haute.)

Our stay was not without drawbacks and resulted in damage to several roof vents on the RV. The park owners are nice and the grounds includes a small restaurant, but to get to the location your drive is over five miles through cornfields along very narrow roads. The grounds was filled with mature walnut trees and several strong winds caused the nuts and shells to drop on the roof like small bombs. As a result, a few cracks developed in the front roof seams and a major hits were taken by overhead vents. The shower facilities were poorly maintained and included those infernal water-flow regulators that you have to push every thirty seconds to maintain pressure. There was no cell phone reception, no television signals and weak wifi. Not a place we would recommend unless you absolutely need to be in the area.

#2 - Atlanta Marietta RV Resort Park
Location: Marietta, GA
Reasons: We stayed at this park for only one night, but would not return for two reasons; costly rates and location.

The major problem was location. The park is in the middle of a residential area that is not easily accessible from I-75. There were several times we became lost trying to locate the entrance due to poorly marked streets and busy intersections. Once we did find the place, the view from our site included a used car lot and a very busy highway. We're just glad we didn't book for an extended stay.

#1 - Frosty Acres
Location: Schenectady, NY
Reasons: As those who have read previous posts know, I now refer to this place as Frost-My-A$$ and will continue to denigrate them as often as possible. They earned it.

We came across Frosty Acres through our membership in Passport America. The place looked great on paper - free wifi, ample electric hookups, weekend activities and a great nightly rate. However, what we experienced was a lack of wifi, inadequate electrical currents, spaces too small to comfortably park any unit over thirty feet in length, a dump station at the top of a very steep hill, a smelly drainage lagoon within thirty feet of our site and questionable long-term residents. To top it all off, their total apathy towards short-term guests made the overall experience uncomfortable.

The other drawback was location. This park is in the middle of nowhere. To shop for supplies required a thirty minute drive into Amsterdam along narrow, winding and hilly roads.

The bottom line is we were deceived. After managing a resort for three years it was not hard for us to quickly understand the place is badly run. They could care less about delivering what they advertise and, I'm sure, repeat their "no refunds for early departure" policy if anyone complains or wishes to leave early. Our advise is to avoid this campground at all costs.

The Best Places We Have Stayed (So Far):

#5 - Indian Rock Campground
Location: York, PA
Reasons: First a disclaimer. If you are looking for a four-star campground, this one is not that kind of place. It is a small, private grounds with 30 RV sites and open areas for primitive camping. The sites are unpaved and access is along narrow country roads.

Aside from a great camp host, the major reason Indian Rock is on our list is all about location. The park sits about 3 miles South of York amid beautiful farms. Within short walking distance there were two places for local produce and meats. One is Miller Farms where we found fresh field corn, tomatoes and other produce. The other is Miller's Meat Market which offers not only the best meats anywhere (both fresh and smoked), but also a wide variety of homemade soups, salads, slaws, original sauces and gourmet spices. To this day we still talk about the quality of that meat. Another perk was close access to the York Heritage Rail Trail. This trail runs along sides of train tracks that were originally part of the North Central R.R. system. The entire trail is 21.3 miles in length, starting at the Pennsylvania/Maryland border and ending in downtown York. It's a beautiful area which is why we extended our stay by an additional week after arriving.

This park is basic, but recommended if you're low maintenance and enjoy superb food in a country setting.

#4 - Bonny Rigg Camping Club
Location: Becket, MA
Reasons: Again, this is a no-frills park with basic amenities. The reason it is on our list is entirely about location.

I can't say it more plainly - we are in love with the Berkshires! There is a gentle serenity to the area that captured our souls. Bonnie Rigg is actually a private "camping club" open year-round and one of the few RV parks available in the Berkshire Mountains of MA. We enjoyed a peaceful brook flowing within ten feet of our site while parked under sprawling pine tree. Beyond the park proper, the entire area is stunningly beautiful with breath-taking views at every turn. We shopped at a small market in Chester that was surprisingly well-stocked and in the middle of a very beautiful neighborhood; old Victorian homes, a gas station that looked unchanged since the fifties and a town center reminiscent of a Frank Capra movie. It is an area we will return to as soon as possible.

#3 - Promised Land State Park
Location: Greentown, PA
Reasons: We generally stay in private RV parks because they offer lower rates for extended stays. State parks and private campgrounds each have their niche and are equally comfortable in their own ways. But no matter how much research we do, we just never know if the places we choose will equal their promotional information; they all promise to the the Promised Land of RV campsites. At this park we found a place that exceeded all expectations in unexpected ways and lived up to its name.

Although it is very remote and deep into bear country, Promised Land State Park is well worth the visit. What set this stop apart from others was the near perfection of its campground and facilities. We drove along roads and parked in a site paved with new, smooth asphalt. The grounds were exceptionally clean and the bathroom facilities were like something out of Star Trek; ultra-modern lighting triggered by motion sensors, spacious showers with slanted drains, low-flow plumbing fixtures and ample hot water. The landscape is ruggedly wild and the staff, as opposed to many state parks, knows the meaning of customer service.

#2 - Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park
Location: White Springs, FL
Reasons: This was our very first stop on this journey and a place we fell in love with immediately. The park is centered around the historical influence of Stephen Foster and is defined by a plantation-era designed visitors center and lush woods filled with massive oaks draped in Spanish moss. The place just screams antebellum Old South. The centerpiece of the park is the world's largest carillon tower comprised of 97 tubular bells. From 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., it chimes the hour including notes on every quarter hour. At 10, 12, 2 & 4 it also fills the park with renditions of Stephen Foster tunes. They are some of his lesser known works, but still beautifully melodic. The sounds of the bells became a very relaxing part of our days. It sits directly on the Suwanee River and hosts an open-mike coffee house the first Saturday of every month.

Most sites are on gravel, but level and close to modern, well-maintained bathrooms. The staff is exceptionally friendly, the grounds immaculate and the historical displays fascinating. As with most state parks, stays are limited to only fourteen days, but a stay at this place for even overnight is worth the trip. Between the people, the daily carillon bells and the setting it felt almost ethereal at times. Our stay at Stephen Foster is the primary reason we chose to return to the White Springs, FL area.

#1 - Kelly's RV Park
Location: White Springs, FL
Reasons: This place is not at the top of our list because we are currently staying here. It is at the top because it deserves to be in every way possible.

Aside from being well maintained and providing excellent amenities like an open library filled with hundreds of books, this place is special because of the people. From the day we arrived we were welcomed with open arms and made to feel as if we had come back home. Most of the permanent residents started the way we did. They arrived initially for a short visit and now have been here for years. It's that kind of place. Everyone is friendly, concerned about one another and works hard to make this area feel like a true neighborhood. The owners, Mary & Richard, define the meaning of gracious hosts and the rural setting is wonderfully peaceful.

I could go on for paragraphs about the joys of staying at Kelly's, but most of what I would say can be found in recent posts. Deb and I agree, it's without a doubt, the best place we have stayed so far.

Until next time, Happy Trails.

copyright 2009-2010 Lane A Geyer
photos by Deb

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A Four Minute Tour

It's been another hot and humid week here in White Springs, FL, the place of our current stay at Kelly's RV Park located along the banks of the historic Suwannee River. There has been more rain, mostly in the form of heavy thunderstorms blanketing the area late afternoons and early evenings. The rains brought a nice break to the heat for short periods, swelled the Spanish moss that is everywhere you look and, unfortunately, also created an increase of Deer flies that can bite off chunks of your skin large enough to draw blood. Welcome to Florida in the Summer.

On Wednesday of last week we decided to unhook the power and sewer lines, roll in the awning and drive our trusty RV Howie (House On Wheels Is Excellent) through White Springs. We saw a very small portion of the North side of town during our stay at Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park about a year ago, but had not yet spent time exploring the original "Historic District". During our walks into the South end (always in the early morning hours), we only get as far as the closest Gas mart before we have to head back home to beat the oppressive heat. As it turned out, it would have been quicker to see the town by foot as opposed to the time it took for us to unhook and then set things back up after our return. The entire drive, from the town limits going South to North, took a grand total of four minutes.

According to the latest figures, the population of White Springs is 829. It may be small, but the town is beautifully kept, has a very "Old Florida" atmosphere and is filled with stately, turn-of-the-century Southern Victorian homes featuring large, wrap-around front porches. The business community is comprised of four Gas marts (two are owned by the same company), a bar-b-que restaurant, a small flower/gift shop, a bed 'n breakfast, the historic Telford hotel/restaurant (pictured above in its early years), a garage that seems to specialize in beat-up stock cars, an "old-fashioned" hardware/feed store that hosts a monthly swap meet, a small auto supply store and a Dollar General store that the locals refer to as the White Springs Mall. The center of town consists of four old storefronts that appear to be circa 1900 (now empty) and a rusted-out, tin-sided cotton gin/grist mill circa 1930. Today, most of the town's economy is supported by visitors to the Stephen Foster and Big Shoals State Parks, surrounding rural residents and people traveling along highway U.S 41 between Jasper to the North and Lake City to the Southeast.

Yet, for as small and rural as the town may appear to people as they pass through, this area has a fascinating history.

The banks of the Suwannee River around White Sulphur Springs have been a place of refuge and restoration for its visitors and residents for centuries. To this day, evidence in the form of shards of pottery, hunting and cooking tools and even weapons are found in places where the early visitors to the region spent their time.
Timucuan Indians were living on the banks of the Suwannee River at White Springs when the Spanish explorers came to what is now North Florida in the 1530s. The Suwannee River formed the boundary between the Timucuans on the east and the Apalachees on the west, and even then it was considered special, and historic.

White Sulphur Springs was considered to be a sacred healing ground and warring tribes could come to bathe in and drink the mineral waters here while putting aside their disagreements.

In 1835, Bryant and Elizabeth Sheffield bought land for a plantation in the Suwannee River valley region, including the spring and most of what is now the Town of White Springs. Mr. Sheffield's testimonials about the good effects the sulfurous spring water had on his health brought others to the ancient healing place who were in need of relief from rheumatism, kidney trouble, nervousness, and other ailments.

Sheffield built a log hotel beside the spring to provide lodging for the visitors, and Florida's first tourist attraction was in business. A log house surrounded the spring until 1903, when Minnie Mosher Jackson built the concrete and coquina wall (still standing) along with a four-tiered structure that included treatment rooms, a concession area, and an elevator. (Pictured above.) Admission was 25 cents and ladies were permitted to bathe without stockings: a bawdy atmosphere for the times!

Because of this one business, White Springs was once a premier destination for thousands of people each year from throughout the world. In the late 1800s, there were 14 luxury hotels (only the Telford remains standing) and many more boarding houses to accommodate the visitors who came by special excursion train to enjoy the river, the spring, and the climate. There was a bowling alley, a skating rink, moving picture shows, and boutiques filled with the latest fashions in gowns and hats. The town incorporated in 1885, and soon provided its citizens with waterworks, sidewalks, and a night watchman.

It was surprising to learn that the mineral spa remained in operation until the mid-1970's. But by that time people were more interested in visiting the Mouse in Orlando and, unfortunately, the underground springs that supplied billions of gallons of fresh water a year to the spa began to run dry. With the increase of agricultural development and a demand for more water to be diverted to Central Florida, most of the springs that once fed into the Suwannee have slowly disappeared.

While the town of White Springs may not have the excitements of larger cities, it still has a lot to offer. It's peaceful, surrounded by beautiful natural areas and comprised of people who are genuinely friendly. If you're passing through, don't blink or you'll miss everything. But better yet, stop for a little while and enjoy the atmosphere. There are very few places like this left in Florida.

copyright 2009-2010 Lane A Geyer
photo by Deb

Back Into The Sauna

It's good to finally be in White Springs, FL again!

We arrived at Kelly's RV Park early afternoon on the 5th. As soon as we started setting up our site we were quickly reminded how humid and how much more intense the sun is here in Florida. We're not complaining because we lived in S. Florida for years and love this kind of weather. But after being in 40% humidity and a UV index of 3, it's an adjustment to suddenly step into 95% humidity and a UV index of 10.

Our departure from the Flower Mill RV Park in Taylors, SC was delayed by one day due to very heavy rains. The front that caused the flooding in Nashville, TN moved through the Carolinas on the third resulting in heavy downpours and high winds. We have driven through that kind of weather before and swore we would never do it again unless absolutely necessary. It's not safe and it's not fun. So we just waited for the weather to improve and enjoyed the fact that the full-time RV lifestyle allows that kind of freedom.

The first leg of our journey was on I-26 to the Jolly Acres RV Park in St. George, SC. It was a pleasant four hour ride with clear roads and blessedly light traffic around the Columbia, SC area. We stayed there for one night enjoying through our front window the peaceful setting of a farm pasture with cows and. The park was well maintained with level sites and a great rate of only $16.00 with our PassPort America discount. The only drawbacks were a rooster from the farm and a bird outside our window that never shut up throughout the entire night. There's nothing like waking up every two hours thinking that morning has arrived and it's time to hit the road again.

Still a bit sleep deprived, we headed South the next morning on I-95 towards Jacksonville, FL. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I-95 is right at the top of my list as one of the boringest stretches of drives anywhere. Except for too many billboards advertising the same things every ten miles, there's nothing to break the monotony. Every time I drive that stretch of road I'm reminded of the quote by Charles Kuralt who said, "Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel the country from coast to coast without seeing anything."

After a brief stop at a Flying J in Brunswick, GA to fill up on gas ($3.00 per gallon!), we headed West on I-10 outside of Jacksonville for a much more scenic drive to U.S. 41 and then North for six miles to our stop here at Kelly's.

It hasn't taken us long to fall in love with this place. It is a very well-maintained RV park with many permanent and long term residents. The property is surrounded by woods of Southern pines, palmetto palms and oak trees dripping with Spanish moss. The access roads are paved, the sights spacious and level with full hook-ups and the people are openly friendly. We have a fast wifi connection, crystal clear spring water, a paved patio area under our awning, on-site laundry facilities, a 24-hour clubhouse with a very large library and a short one mile walk into the town of White Springs for miscellaneous supplies. When we do need to stock up on major items, there is a Wal-Mart just ten miles down the road in Lake City. The best part is the monthly rate is very reasonable for this part of the country. We are booked in for a month, but are already discussing extending our stay for much longer.

Next week we plan to further explore White Springs, walk the extensive trails around the area, work on regaining our tans and enjoy the peacefulness of this place. We'll move at a slower pace than we have over the past five months because, once your back to living in a sauna, the only way to survive the Florida conditions is to adapt a local attitude and just slow down.

copyright 2009-2010 Lane A Geyer
photos by Deb

Best Laid Plans

Have you ever had one of those days when you wake up and life delivers an unexpected reality THWACK out of nowhere? Well, we had one of those days early last week that altered our plans to be in Florida by now. Man, I hate when that happens; especially before my first cup of coffee.

Not to fear. Our change in plans are not due to any major problems. My Mom is doing fine, we are fine and our old RV Howie (House On Wheels Is Excellent) is in great shape. The decision to hang out a little while longer here in Taylors, SC is due to "circumstances beyond our control".

I should have known better than to check my phone messages before I was fully awake, but I did and had one from the RV park we were going to in Florida. There was a problem and they requested a return call as soon as possible. After downing enough coffee to feel conscious, I called and found out they had major water line problems. They were more than willing to accommodate us anyway, but warned that the spaces would be tight and the repairs could take as long as three weeks to complete. Although they didn't elaborate, I was left with the impression that the problem was based in their sewer lines and drain field.

We have stayed in places where underground repairs were being completed and it is not a pleasant experience. There is a lot of noise, dust, mud if it rains and disruptions to water access. If the problem is indeed in their septic system, that also leads to the additional potential for some very offensive odors. The fact that they said it could take up to three weeks to complete repairs left us with a potential situation of being in tight, uncomfortable surroundings for longer than is desirable.

We could have arranged for another place to stay, but after careful discussions, came to the conclusion it was in our best long-term interests to stay put for now based upon several factors. One is the desire to be in Florida for a potential work/camp position and the other is financial.

Our first stay on this journey was at the Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park and we feel in love with the place. It is a quaint, small "Old Florida" town with genuinely nice people and beautiful scenery. Between the dense Spanish moss dripping from the trees and the hourly music heard emanating from the park's 97-bell carillon, the area has an almost ethereal quality. Landing a work/camp position at the park is something we have always worked towards. It would provide a free, full hook-up site at no charge for up to three months in exchange for 20 hours of light work per week. The weird thing about Florida State Parks is that they have no central point for obtaining a work/camp position. They suggest that it is best to just go, in person, to the park your interested in and check availability. I can see their wisdom in this structure in that it is much easier to make a decision about a person first-hand than through other routes. Besides, outside of the surreal madhouse that is South Florida, that is the way business is done throughout most of the state.

In addition, it would provide us a chance to spend enough time in Florida to maintain our residency in the state. One of the odd aspects of full-time RV living is maintaining a legal residency when you have no other residence than your "house on wheels" and travel constantly. It is best to stay a little while each year in your registered state to avoid complications with voting rights, insurance claims and other legal considerations.

As far as the financial considerations, it was pretty much a no-brainer. We have a steady monthly income, but aren't exactly swimming in money and try to save a buck whenever we can. You never know when a tire will go flat, a mechanical problem will arise or something else will come up that makes you glad you've set something aside to cover unexpected expenses. The rate at the park in Florida is very reasonable and equal to what we are paying here at the Flower Mill. To stay anywhere else in between would have been more expensive overall. Add to that the fact that fuel prices are currently around $2.90 for mid-grade and the numbers are in favor of just riding out the situation. We are comfortable, safe and still close to family. Sure, we are disappointed to not be on the road again, but this too shall soon pass. As they say, "life happens".

One of the great things about living in an RV is that you have your house with you, so it doesn't matter where you are, because you're always home. If you don't like your surroundings, you can move on at any time. If the weather is bad, you can just wait until it improves. If you are comfortable with the surroundings, you can stay as long as you like. And, if unexpected surprises arise, you can quickly adapt to the new realities of a sudden change in plans. The lifestyle has a lot of freedoms that cannot be found otherwise.

Hopefully, the problems in Florida will be resolved quickly, but we are not counting on it. For now, we will continue enjoying the beautiful spring blossoms that surrounds us and stay ready to move on as soon as the opportunity arises.

Thought For The Day - If you're not where you are, you're nowhere!

copyright 2009-2010 Lane A Geyer

photos by Deb

Gone, Gone, Gone

Carillon Tower & Suwannee River

June 3, 2009

We pulled out of the Rooftop Resort parking lot around 7 a.m. on June 1st. After months of discussing the idea of full-time RV living, scouring every available resource to find the right unit, packing, repacking and putting our affairs in order it was exhilarating to feel the forward movement towards our new way of life. Ironically, for me, it was the ten year anniversary of moving to the area from South Bend, Indiana; which I found fitting in my belief it is important to complete life circles. There were no tears, high-fives or fond farewells to the neighborhood. In later discussions we both shared feeling no sense of sorrow or regret in the leaving. We will miss the beautiful vista of the Atlantic ocean we enjoyed every day, but the work and general lifestyle in S. Florida had worn us both out.

The Eastern coast of Florida is a tropical paradise of warm weather, beautiful vistas and superb exotic foods all underscored by an eclectic mix of cultures. But there is an ugly underbelly to the region that, after a time, proves to be a slow infestation on the soul. Once beyond the wow factor of no more cold, exciting new places to go and ocean views, it hits like a hammer to the head that there is indeed always a yin to the yang. Violent crime rates, horrendous traffic patterns (especially on-season), transient populations and hurricane seasons can eventually leave one feeling it is more of a place to be endured than enjoyed.

Most of the day was spent on I-75 heading North. First across Alligator Alley then up the West coast. We actually did see one gator floating in a canal. It looked like a gray-white log with a tail. The trip was smooth and uneventful with surprisingly few rattles or shifting of our stuff. We did a good job of packing things for constant transport in a moving vehicle considering we're virgins at it. The Pace Arrow drove solid for her age. After brief stops at a Flying-J for fuel and a Wally World (Wal-Mart) for foods stocks, we arrived around 5 p.m. in White Springs, Fl. for a 7 day stay at the Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park.

Upon entering we knew the right choice had been made for the first stop in our new journey. Slowly making our way along winding roads to our campsite, we were greeted by lush woods filled with massive oaks draped in Spanish moss. The place just screams antebellum Old South. After a few wrong turns we found our site, set up what we needed and watched nature unfold. While squirrels foraged, an amazing chorus of bird songs and the hypnotic, slow sway of the moss kept us spellbound for hours. After the atmosphere we had left only hours earlier, it felt like nirvana. We sat, ate, opened a few windows to continue enjoying the bird chorus and slept like infants.

* * *

June 7, 2009

Our time here has been relaxing and more informative than we could have ever imagined. Home to the annual Florida Folk festival, this park provides a perfect balance between nature and Florida's cultural heritage.

One of our first hikes was to the Suwannee River, Luckily, we hit a week when the river has been at its highest peak all year. It is a "black water" system that starts in the Great Okefenokee Swamp and winds its way for eventual release into the Gulf. The blackness of the water comes from the tannic acids of cypress trees and decaying vegetation. Fed by hundreds of underground springs that, at one time, poured half a billion gallons of fresh water into the system daily, the river lightened as it reached the Gulf. Unfortunately, the amount of fresh water has diminished tremendously of the years due to shrinking water tables, now causing the river to remain murkier at all points. But it still remains a beautiful, largely unspoiled natural area that is unlike anything else in the state.

The centerpiece of the park is the world's largest carillon tower comprised of 97 tubular bells. From 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., it chimes the hour including notes on every quarter hour. At 10, 12, 2 & 4 it also fills the park with renditions of Stephen Foster tunes. They are some of his lesser known works, but still beautifully melodic. The sounds of the bells became a very relaxing part of our days.

One of our more fascinating visits was to the Stephen Foster Museum that is housed in an antebellum mansion typical of those that existed in Foster's era. The first thing that strikes you upon entry are the beautiful oil paintings of Foster overhanging fireplaces in both of the grand rooms. Dioramas depicting interpretations of scenes from his best known songs fill the building. There are reproductions of his sheet music sitting on pianos of the era, plus the desk upon which he wrote "Old Folks At Home".

As far as anyone knows, Foster never actually saw the Suwannee. He was a prolific composure from Pennsylvania, born into a wealthy business family, who had neither the inclination or patience to be a businessman. In all, 201 of his songs were published. While he was writing the lyrics for "Old Folks At Home" he showed up at his brothers office frustrated that he could not find a two-syllable Southern river that fit the tune. After suggestions of the PeeDee in South Carolina and the Yazoo in Mississippi, both of which Foster disliked, his brother pulled out an atlas and suggested the Suwannee. Foster liked it, dropped it from three to two syllables (Swannee) and an American Classic was born.

It was also interesting to learn the history of White Springs. Now a sleepy little town, it was once a major tourist destination for its mineral springs spa. The old spas concrete skeleton sits at the entrance to the park and, beginning in the early eighteen hundreds until the early seventies, became a place to "take the waters". Rich in sulphur, the spa waters touted cures for everything from the gout to dandruff to mental disorders. It also offered colonics, warm blanket wraps and massages. Admission was 25 cents and ladies were permitted to bath without stockings: a bawdy atmosphere for the times! Because of this single business, the town once boasted 14 luxury hotels and numerous boarding houses.

On Saturday, we experienced an absolutely wonderful evening at the Arts In The Park Coffeehouse held in the auditorium. It was hosted by a fiddle player who entertained with tunes like "The Opossum and the Skunk". For two hours we listened to local artists share beautiful songs; most of their own composition. Some guitar, some piano, a colorful three-piece Old Opry trio, a storyteller and Ranger Larry. Most proudly proclaimed themselves "Crackers" and sang of a Florida lost and days when local waters ran plentiful. Many would argue about the use of the word "Cracker", but to those native born it is a term of pride. The word comes out of history. Old-time cow handlers would drive great herds of cattle across Florida to shipping points, popping long cowhide whips so loudly they could be heard for miles around. It is a link to their past. We reveled in the songs, sang along to an acapella version of "Amazing Grace" and felt a true community connection to those around us.

Tomorrow we head down the road to a park outside of Savanna, Ga. This place will be missed. We have rested, re-learned outdoor cooking, become familiar with our new home and met nice people. The fellow campers have been friendly and the facilities superb with beautifully maintained grounds and a top-notch staff. Between the people, the daily carillon bells and the setting it has felt almost ethereal at times. We are more rested and better people in both body and spirit because of our time here.

Photographs by Debbie

copyright 2009 Lane A Geyer